Each Chef Ought to Learn Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.

Patricia Reilly
Patricia Reilly

Lighting designer with over a decade of experience in sustainable and aesthetic lighting solutions for residential and commercial spaces.

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